Want to explore a side of China few tourists get to see? Take a long ride on a slow train, and discover the country’s most authentic - and delicious - street cuisine.
The food vendors outside China’s train stations are brutally competitive - only the best ones survive. China’s local trains may be slow, crowded, and noisy - but once you get to your destination you will have earned a seat in gastronomical heaven.
* * * *
Newly middle class Chinese are discovering their own country, causing an explosion in domestic tourism. Unfortunately most Chinese can only afford to take the slower trains.
The lucky passengers have seats. Those who can’t afford them have booked cheaper, standing-only tickets. And this ride is three days long. Plenty of time to look out the window. This is the real China – sprawling for mile after mile.
There’s no dining carriage, but you can always get hot water for tea and noodles.
Just when everyone is getting bored, the entertainment arrives. It’s a train employee, and he’s selling self-cleaning miracle towels. He’s very persuasive. Everybody buys.
There are no Western fast-food outlets at the remoter stops but they have something SO much better: food stalls outside each station.
This is the ultimate Chinese street cuisine. Fresh, local ingredients, made to order. Though the water may not be completely clean.
It’s august and beastly hot, but it could be worse. The roving sellers have to carry their entire stock. Though the food sellers still can’t afford to slack off -there’s plenty of other vendors gunning for their clientele:
• The skewered meat seller.
• The fresh fruit cart
• And comfort foods from every corner of China.
• Even Uighyur bread – baked in a traditional tanoor oven from the country’s far western provinces.
And if you shoe should lose a heel – or your suitcase a wheel – there’s a seller for that as well. There’s even a roving food cart tire repairman.
There are a few times of year you want to avoid public transport at all costs, particularly the train or bus: Chinese New Year and Golden Week. It’s when migrant workers and students go back to their villages. Tickets sell out six months in advance - it’s the largest movement of human beings on the planet. 357 million passengers - more than population of United States.
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