What Is “The Indian Collection“ by Yves Siant Luarent SS 1982?
“On 27 January 1982, Yves Saint Laurent celebrated the twentieth anniversary of the couture house he had opened at 30 bis rue Spontini in 1962.
The spring summer 1982 collection was therefore in a sense «historic’ and Yves Saint Laurent felt particularly anxious before it was presented.
According to a report in La Mode en peinture,he said “I am frightened of this collection.I am far more anxious that I was for my first collection. It is reassessment. Twenty years…it is the end of adolescence,the beginning of maturity. I really feel like a beginner’.
The collection emphasized small waists, counter balanced by wide shoulders that accentuated narrow hips.
The voluminous dresses embellished with geometric or floral forms in the manner or Brossin de Mere’s patchwork technique were at times reminiscent of Matisse’s cut -outs.
There were more than 20 designs for eveningwear- dresses and ensembles inspired by India.
Some of these outfits paired an Indian man’s bolero,edged with rich embroidery by Lesage that evoked northwestern India ( Rajasthan and Gujarat) and embellished with passementerie and precious stones,with a long skirt in moire silk faille in a personal interpretation of the princely coat worn at the Mughal court.
Thanks to the interplay of proportions, the juxtaposition of complementary colours such as bright blue and Orange prodeced a strong ,balanced and imposing silhouette.
Saint Laurent had examined Indian miniatures down to the details of the jewelry: he adorned his models with swathed turbans decorated with ornaments known as sarpech that symbolised princely power…”
#fashionhistory #ysl #hautecouture
Music Credit: “Quite Unique“ Tigerblood Jewel
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