Erdem | Pre Fall Winter 2023/2024 | The Looks

Erdem | Pre Fall Winter 2023/2024 | The Looks One of these days, Erdem Moralioglu really ought to costume a historical movie. This season is a sort of pre-fall trailer for the season to come; a staging-post between his exquisite, veiled, museum conservation-inspired show for spring, and the ideas he’s rehearsing for his upcoming fall runway. “It’s about bringing this Victorian world to life.” It’s not that Erdem’s collections are ever front-on costumey. They’re made for the social whirl of modern events, balanced out with his more practical daywear takes on tailoring, trousers, and suchlike. Nadine Ijewere was photographing his notes on a theme—puffed-sleeved dresses, varieties of long-skirted silhouettes, cropped bustiers, elaborate-but-light textures and embroideries, and more sober coats—while he talked through the backstory that lies behind them. This chapter’s colors, prints, silhouettes, and suggestions of under-things are shadow-projections of his research in the London Library in