How to make a good “Pain Rustique“ I Taught by Bread industry legend Toshio Nihei.
For more information on Toshio Nihei’s bread making techniques, please click here.
Donq: The Road to Bon Pain with Toshio Nihei
【Toshio Nihei】
Toshio Nihei was born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1947 and joined Donq Co. Since his training in France in 1983, he has been active in internal and external seminars, and has made efforts to teach and support young Japanese bakers who go to global competitions.
He was in charge of the bread for the dinner at the G7 Climate and Energy Environment Ministerial Meeting held in Sapporo in April 2023. He is called a legend by bakers in the bread industry for his overwhelming technical skills and wealth of knowledge.
【Raymond Calvel】
Professor at the French National School of Flour Milling (ENSMIC), born in Tarn, France.
In 1954, he stayed in Japan for three months and held international baking workshops at 17 venues across the country, introducing authentic French bread to Japan. At that time, Donq’s president Yukio Fujii began exchanges with Raymond Calvel. Donq has been learning orthodox French bread from Professor Carvel and spreading it in Japan since then.
【Pain Rustique】
A bread made from baguette dough without kneading.
The following is a recipe for Pain Rustique that Mr. Nihei saw at Gérard Meunier’s store in Paris, France, in 1983.
[Ingredients]
Lys D’or: 100%.
Semi-dry yeast Red: 0.2
Salt: 1.8
Euro malt: 0.2
Water: 78 2 (30℃) %
[Process]
・Mixing by hand
Dissolve salt and malt in the cold water. Dissolve the semi-dry yeast in the warm(30°C) water. sprinkle in the semi-dry yeast. After dissolving, mix all the ingredients to finish the process. In terms of the mixing stage, hand mixing is completed at the “pick-up“ stage (not hand kneading).
・Kneading temperature
23-24°C
・Fermentation
1 hour after mixing, punch the dough and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, remove from the refrigerator and fold it 3 times twice. When the temperature of the center of the dough reaches 15℃ or higher, fold the dough a second time. If necessary, the dough is folded a third time 30-40 minutes later. Cut the dough 30-40 minutes after the last folding.
・Fermentator
Heat the dough for 15-50 minutes depending on the condition of the dough.
・Baking
Raise the temperature of the upper level of the oven above the baking temperature of baguette before baking. Lower the temperature to the same point as the lower part of the oven when starting the baking. Turn on steam. (If the oven’s heat storage capacity is low, the dough will not grow upward.)
【Chef Nihei’s explanation (the part not included in the video)】
Why do you think “Lys D’or“ is the best for “Pain Rustique“ and “Baguette“?
“Lys D’or“ is a product marketed by Nisshin Flour Milling that “pursues the taste and aroma of traditional baguette,“ and is a flour named by Professor Raymond Calvel. It has the lowest protein and highest ash content of all the flours dedicated to French bread sold commercially in Japan.
After testing more than 10 different types of pure flours, including those from Kyushu, Kanto, and Hokkaido, in his “Pain Rustique“, Nihei found “Lys D’or“ to be the most delicious, and continues to use it.
Japanese people prefer chewy texture, so much so that wheat varieties (low-amylose) are in high demand, but French wheat is not low-amylose, so Nihei does not use 100% domestic wheat for his baguettes. He would also like to use French wheat for his baguettes, but does not because of the very high tariffs set on wheat. The prices are already high even with the use of domestic wheat. Using imported wheat from France results in even higher prices.
As a result, the price of baguettes will be higher, but he believes that baguettes are bread for daily consumption and should be affordable.
Reasons for adding malt
In France, the use of vitamin C in breads called “Pain Traditionnelle“ is prohibited, but malt is allowed.
To make baguettes with unsweetened dough, the enzyme alpha amylase is needed to break the sugar chain of the starch in the flour at the initial stage of dough making. However, ordinary wheat lacks this enzyme, so it is necessary to supplement it by adding malt.
Courtesy of the venue (Special Thanks):
Boulangerie L’ESSENTIEL
Filming and Editing: REIYA Watanabe
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